Tuesday, May 13, 2008

Best Friends

Every now an then in the food world, we come across certain flavor combinations that are just too good to be ignored. Foods that I like to refer to as "best friends." But I'm talking about digging a little deeper than peanut butter and jelly or tomatoes and basil. The whole idea of gastronomic play pals came about one day when I was explaining to one of my young cooks that "curry and lime juice are like best friends." My sous chef thought that was hilarious and from that day on, new ingredients became our culinary version of free word association until we found their "best friend," as well.

There are plenty of factors that determine who will or will not be best friends but one of the most important is seasonality. To throw out another kitchen cliche, "things that grow together, go together." There are two things growing together right now that are one of my favorite pairs- and their combinations are endless- Asparagus and Farm Eggs.  I know it's kind of weird to think of eggs as having a growing season, but they are definitely a sign of spring. One of my favorite and simplest arrangements of these old pals is an old fashioned egg salad with lots of tender asparagus mixed in. Then to dress it up, a paper thin shaving of raw asparagus as the whole thing sits on a round pillowy pumpernickel. 

I know, I know, the whole thing sounds a little plain- right? Here's the kicker... Instead of using a jar of Helman's for your dressing, whisk a bit of curry powder into creme fraiche, thin it with a couple drops of tarragon vinegar and toss in some fresh chopped chervil. Give it a try- this easy app might become one of your "best friends."

Monday, May 12, 2008

Green Tomatoes and Cookie Dough

Michel Richard says of tomatoes, “when eaten at their peak of ripeness, they’re spectacular. Yet at any other time, why even bother?”

"Why bother" was of one of the great questions of my childhood. When Mom baked cookies, I would watch my brother forgo a sweet payoff by trying to sneak a fingers worth of dough out of the bowl while Mom wasn't looking, but moms always know. However, the reward for my patience was always the very first cookie, hot from the oven. Every time my brother snuck to that bowl I wondered "why bother?"  A cookie, fresh out of the oven- at the peak of its ripeness- is spectacular. One day, in the middle of cookie making, Mom went out to talk to a neighbor and I finally got my own spoonful of cookie dough. I never wondered "why bother" again.

So, to Michel Richard, I say:

Why bother?

Because green tomatoes, that’s why.

Michel Richard is right, a perfectly ripe red tomato is spectacular. The juicy red flesh, fresh from the vine, still warm from the suns rays is beyond spectacular- it’s like a chocolate chip cookie fresh from the oven. And green tomatoes? Well, they are surely a heaping spoonful of cookie dough.

Just like the young boy who couldn't wait for the cookies to bake, I can't wait for the tomatoes to ripen. So as spring struggles to turn itself into summer (45˚ and rainy in NYC today) I will sit back and enjoy the tart, crunchy green tomato while I wait for my juicy red tomatoes to "come out of the oven."  


Fried Green Tomatoes


4 Green Tomatoes 
3 cups Cornmeal
2 cup flour
1 Tsp cayenne pepper
1 qt.+ Buttermilk
Canola oil for frying

Core the tomatoes and slice them horizontally, one-half inch thick. Discard the top and bottom pieces, place the remaining slice in a bowl or Tupperware container and cover completely with buttermilk. Leave to marinate at least 30 minutes, longer is better.

In a large bowl, combine the cornmeal, flour, cayenne, 2 Tbsp salt, 1 Tbsp pepper and mix with a dry whisk. 

Drain the tomatoes slices from the buttermilk and toss in the cornmeal mixture. Make sure each slice is separated and well coated. Leave the slices in the mixture while they wait to be fried. In a cast iron skillet or wide, heavy-bottomed pan, add the oil to depth of 2 inches. Heat to 375 degrees. Carefully add the slices one at a time, making sure to tap off the excess breading for going into the oil. Cook until golden brown, remove from the oil with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with salt and serve immediately.  

Spicy Mayo Sauce 

1 cup Mayonnaise 
1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard 
1 clove garlic 
1 lemon, juiced 
Sriracha hot sauce
Salt and Pepper 

Grate garlic clove on a rasp (microplane) to form a paste. Whisk together garlic, mayonnaise and mustard. Add hot sauce, lemon juice, salt and pepper to taste. 

Friday, May 9, 2008

Market Meals


Nothing is better than a spring-time Farmer's Market... except maybe a full, colorful summer market or the bounty of an autumn market. OK, they're all great, but right now it's spring so I'm excited about spring veggies. Plus, it's the first time in months I've been able to buy everything I need for my lunch at the market. 

My shopping list this week:
  • the first of the season asparagus from south Jersey
  • Ramps
  • fresh chorizo from Tamarack Hollow Farms
  • fresh farm eggs
The plan? I've got a little leftover cornbread at home, so how does this sound...

Roasted Ramps and Chorizo Panzanella with Steamed Asparagus, Soft Boiled Farm Eggs and Smoked Almonds



It doesn't get much easier:
1. Boil the eggs and throw them in some cold water to cool
2. Put the chorizo and ramp bulbs on a baking sheet and into the oven at 400˚
3. When the chorizo is sizzling and the bulbs are tender pour a couple tablespoons of red vinegar onto the pan to make your sauce
4. Chop up your leftover cornbread (or baugette) and slice the sausages
5. In big bowl, mix up the pan juices, sliced sausage and cornbread
6. Cook the asparagus until tender in boiling water
7. Throw it all on the plate, with the boiled eggs and a few smoked almonds

Wednesday, May 7, 2008

The Best Southern Food in New York City

Looking for the best southern cooking in NYC? It could be in your own kitchen!  Join me at the Institute of Culinary Education this summer as my series, open to the general public, takes you through all aspects of southern cooking- new and old. 


"As one of the top southern chefs in New York City, James has put his years of experience at the uber-award-winning Highlands Bar and Grill, as well as time served at Restaurant Daniel, to create traditional southern menus with a uniquely innovative approach and modern flair."

The first class, Southern Cooking Essentials, sold out weeks ago; but don't worry, round two is coming... 
Visit iceculinary.com, recreational division for more information. OR check out the menus here and make your reservation to get into the kitchen with me.

Class format: Discussion of recipes, hands-on cooking, family-style dinner of all food prepared with wine or maybe a beer... or two.

Southern Cooking Essentials

May 10, August 23

Fried Green Tomatoes with Spicy Remoulade

Crispy Mac and Cheese

Shrimp and Grits with Bacon and Tomato Emulsion

Smoky Collard Greens with Cornbread

Bacon and Rosemary Stuffed Pork Rack with Creamed Corn

The Perfect Fried Chicken

Summer Berry Cobbler

Pecan Peach Crisp

Lemon Ice Box Pie

 

Creole Cooking

May 30, June 21

Baked Oysters Rockafeller on the Half Shell

Red Beans Rice

Crawfish Etouffee

Shrimp, Oyster and Sausage Jambalaya

Traditional Summer Seafood Gumbo

Classic Muffaletta Sandwich with homemade Giardineria

New Orleans Beignets

Lemon Ice Box Pie

Bananas Foster

 

Southern Summer Harvest

May 31, June 14

Warm Tomato Salad with Bacon-Charred Corn Vinaigrette and Melted Goat Cheese

Curried Crab Salad with Watermelon and Arugula

Smoked Trout and Summer Bean Salad, Candied Lemon, Horseradish and Mint Vinaigrette

Tomato and Okra Stew with Chickpeas and Cumin

Cucumber and Buttermilk Soup

Chilled Tomato Soup

Lobster Succotash

Spice-Roasted Figs with Honey and Mint

Summer Fruit Cobbler

Pecan Peach Crisp

 

Seafood with a Southern Accent

June 1

Greek-Style Baked Grouper

Cornmeal Fried Oysters with Spicy Remoulade

Shrimp, Bacon and Corn Chowder

Carolina Oyster Pan Roast with Sweet and Hot Peppers

Sauteed Flounder with Crabmeat Meuniere

Gulf Coast Blue Crab Cakes

Pan Fried Red Snapper with Asparagus and Farm Eggs

 

 

Country Breakfast

June 12, August 24

Shrimp and Grits with Crisp Bacon and Tomato Emulsion

Buttermilk Biscuits with Country Sausage White Gravy

Trout Amandine

Nassau Grits

Hoe Cakes

Sweet Pepper and Ham Potato Hash

Southern Eggs Benedict with Red-Eye Gravy

Creamy Stone Ground Grits with Pork Grillades

Buttermilk Pancakes and Berry Jam

 

Low Country Cooking

May 17, September 19

Sauteed Soft Shell Crabs, Lemon and Caper Pan Sauce

Low Country Red Rice

Shrimp and Grits with Crisp Bacon and Tomato Emulsion

Frogmore Stew with Summer Corn, Andouille and Shrimp

Hoppin’ John with Okra and Peas

Slow Roasted Pork Shoulder with Mustard-Vinegar Sauce

Benne Crusted Lamb Rack with Coconut Pirlau

Homemade Peach Ice Cream

Friday, May 2, 2008

Derby Day

Need some last minute ideas for grub at your Kentucky Derby Party? 
I've got a couple ideas- and thanks to Einav Gefen for her great jicama slaw and bourbon cured salmon.

How 'bout a little refresher on how to make the perfect Mint Julep? 
Brooke will show you how.

Check out our video from Good Morning America...

Speaking of Crawfish...

...check out this great, super simple recipe for crawfish with chicken!

Thursday, May 1, 2008

Next Stop, James Beard House

People in New York City look at you kind of funny when you're carrying a crate of live crawfish down the street....

Oh well, I've some beautiful mudbugs as big as the Empire State Building- now to find a pot that's big enough....