Tuesday, May 13, 2008
Best Friends
Monday, May 12, 2008
Green Tomatoes and Cookie Dough
Michel Richard says of tomatoes, “when eaten at their peak of ripeness, they’re spectacular. Yet at any other time, why even bother?”
"Why bother" was of one of the great questions of my childhood. When Mom baked cookies, I would watch my brother forgo a sweet payoff by trying to sneak a fingers worth of dough out of the bowl while Mom wasn't looking, but moms always know. However, the reward for my patience was always the very first cookie, hot from the oven. Every time my brother snuck to that bowl I wondered "why bother?" A cookie, fresh out of the oven- at the peak of its ripeness- is spectacular. One day, in the middle of cookie making, Mom went out to talk to a neighbor and I finally got my own spoonful of cookie dough. I never wondered "why bother" again.
So, to Michel Richard, I say:
Why bother?
Because green tomatoes, that’s why.
Michel Richard is right, a perfectly ripe red tomato is spectacular. The juicy red flesh, fresh from the vine, still warm from the suns rays is beyond spectacular- it’s like a chocolate chip cookie fresh from the oven. And green tomatoes? Well, they are surely a heaping spoonful of cookie dough.
Just like the young boy who couldn't wait for the cookies to bake, I can't wait for the tomatoes to ripen. So as spring struggles to turn itself into summer (45˚ and rainy in NYC today) I will sit back and enjoy the tart, crunchy green tomato while I wait for my juicy red tomatoes to "come out of the oven."
Fried Green Tomatoes
4 Green Tomatoes3 cups Cornmeal2 cup flour1 Tsp cayenne pepper1 qt.+ ButtermilkCanola oil for fryingCore the tomatoes and slice them horizontally, one-half inch thick. Discard the top and bottom pieces, place the remaining slice in a bowl or Tupperware container and cover completely with buttermilk. Leave to marinate at least 30 minutes, longer is better.In a large bowl, combine the cornmeal, flour, cayenne, 2 Tbsp salt, 1 Tbsp pepper and mix with a dry whisk.
Drain the tomatoes slices from the buttermilk and toss in the cornmeal mixture. Make sure each slice is separated and well coated. Leave the slices in the mixture while they wait to be fried. In a cast iron skillet or wide, heavy-bottomed pan, add the oil to depth of 2 inches. Heat to 375 degrees. Carefully add the slices one at a time, making sure to tap off the excess breading for going into the oil. Cook until golden brown, remove from the oil with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with salt and serve immediately.Spicy Mayo Sauce1 cup Mayonnaise1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard1 clove garlic1 lemon, juicedSriracha hot sauceSalt and PepperGrate garlic clove on a rasp (microplane) to form a paste. Whisk together garlic, mayonnaise and mustard. Add hot sauce, lemon juice, salt and pepper to taste.
Friday, May 9, 2008
Market Meals
- the first of the season asparagus from south Jersey
- Ramps
- fresh chorizo from Tamarack Hollow Farms
- fresh farm eggs
Wednesday, May 7, 2008
The Best Southern Food in New York City

Southern Cooking Essentials
May 10, August 23
Fried Green Tomatoes with Spicy Remoulade
Crispy Mac and Cheese
Shrimp and Grits with Bacon and Tomato Emulsion
Smoky Collard Greens with Cornbread
Bacon and Rosemary Stuffed Pork Rack with Creamed Corn
The Perfect Fried Chicken
Summer Berry Cobbler
Pecan Peach Crisp
Lemon Ice Box Pie
Creole Cooking
May 30, June 21
Baked Oysters Rockafeller on the Half Shell
Red Beans Rice
Crawfish Etouffee
Shrimp, Oyster and Sausage Jambalaya
Traditional Summer Seafood Gumbo
Classic Muffaletta Sandwich with homemade Giardineria
New Orleans Beignets
Lemon Ice Box Pie
Bananas Foster
Southern Summer Harvest
May 31, June 14
Warm Tomato Salad with Bacon-Charred Corn Vinaigrette and Melted Goat Cheese
Curried Crab Salad with Watermelon and Arugula
Smoked Trout and Summer Bean Salad, Candied Lemon, Horseradish and Mint Vinaigrette
Tomato and Okra Stew with Chickpeas and Cumin
Cucumber and Buttermilk Soup
Chilled Tomato Soup
Lobster Succotash
Spice-Roasted Figs with Honey and Mint
Summer Fruit Cobbler
Pecan Peach Crisp
Seafood with a Southern Accent
June 1
Greek-Style Baked Grouper
Cornmeal Fried Oysters with Spicy Remoulade
Shrimp, Bacon and Corn Chowder
Carolina Oyster Pan Roast with Sweet and Hot Peppers
Sauteed Flounder with Crabmeat Meuniere
Gulf Coast Blue Crab Cakes
Pan Fried Red Snapper with Asparagus and Farm Eggs
Country Breakfast
June 12, August 24
Shrimp and Grits with Crisp Bacon and Tomato Emulsion
Buttermilk Biscuits with Country Sausage White Gravy
Trout Amandine
Nassau Grits
Hoe Cakes
Sweet Pepper and Ham Potato Hash
Southern Eggs Benedict with Red-Eye Gravy
Creamy Stone Ground Grits with Pork Grillades
Buttermilk Pancakes and Berry Jam
Low Country Cooking
May 17, September 19
Sauteed Soft Shell Crabs, Lemon and Caper Pan Sauce
Low Country Red Rice
Shrimp and Grits with Crisp Bacon and Tomato Emulsion
Frogmore Stew with Summer Corn, Andouille and Shrimp
Hoppin’ John with Okra and Peas
Slow Roasted Pork Shoulder with Mustard-Vinegar Sauce
Benne Crusted Lamb Rack with Coconut Pirlau
Homemade Peach Ice Cream
Friday, May 2, 2008
Derby Day


